The Tuscan Archipelago and Elba

Like seven precious pearls, seven islands adorn the Tyrrhenian Sea off the Tuscan coast: Elba, Giglio, Capraia, Gorgona, Pianosa, Montecristo and Giannutri, each has its own unique charm. Together they form the Tuscan Archipelago National Park, one of the largest marine parks in Europe, and a slice of paradise for us and for the many protected species, including the common dolphin, sea turtles and migratory birds.

The green and the blue

Although very close to each other, the islands of the Tuscan archipelago all have very different environments. Leave from Porto Santo Stefano to get to Giglio and its golden beaches. A boat trip of slightly under an hour will bring you to Giglio Porto which is the gateway to the other villages and the numerous coves on the island. Porto Santo Stefano is also the departure point (but with fewer connections) for Giannutri, the southernmost, crescent-shaped island surrounded by crystal-clear waters. For wild Capraia, distinctive for its sheer lava cliffs, you’ll need leave from the port of Livorno. A visit to the very flat Pianosa starts from Marina di Campo on the island of Elba, and in high season, from Piombino. For decades it was an impregnable prison island, but today Gorgona is still the only remaining prison island and, together with the island of Montecristo, has restricted access. Gorgona permits only 100 people at a time, only if accompanied and without mobile phones or cameras. Montecristo, made famous by Dumas’ tale, will only allow 1,500 per year, and the waitlist for a visit tends to be long. This restriction is necessary to preserve the environmental uniqueness and biodiversity of the island. Visits to Gorgona and Montecristo must be booked online (well in advance) at www.parcoarcipelago.info

All facets of the Island of Elba

Within the Tuscan archipelago, the Island of Elba is the largest and most famous. It possesses a rich history and unique natural beauty. You can organise a day trip from the hu Park Albatros village, departing in the morning from Piombino (one hour by boat), to tour some of the most evocative spots on this island of a thousand facets. It offers everything from nature excursions and visits to villages, to historical and archaeological sites, a day at the beach or a lunch of local specialities.

Arrival in Portoferraio

The island’s most densely populated centre, its capital and main port, Portoferraio greets you with old-world charm. Spend a little time in the steep streets of the upper area, where church bells ring and laundry is hung out to dry in the sun. Stroll along the harbour quays, where fishermen sell fish directly from their boats and listen to the hubbub of the piazza interrupted only by the toot of departing ferries. If you are hungry, look out for La Cisterna, an excellent, slightly out of the way pizzeria where you can sample Elba’s schiacciata. If, on the other hand, you are looking for a tasty souvenir to take away, go to Tonnina, where they sell the preserved local tuna. For a snack, breakfast, a cocktail, or even shopping aMare is the place to go to: everything is on sale here.

History to discover

In 1814, Elba was home to Napoleon Bonaparte, who spent his year-long exile in two magnificent villas. The Palazzina dei Mulini, overlooking Portoferraio, where Napoleon received his official visits and, close to the village, the Villa di San Martino, where he spent his private life surrounded by an enormous park. The neoclassical Demidoff Gallery that houses the statue of Galatea by Antonio Canova (modelled on Napoleon’s sister Pauline) makes it well-worth a visit. The residence is above the gallery and offers splendid panoramic views. But Elba’s history is thousands of years old and can be explored through the numerous ruins from the Etruscan and Roman periods when the island was an important mining centre. You can admire the traces of these eras at the Archaeological Museum of Linguella and the ruins of the Roman Villa of Linguella.

A day at the seaside

Elba’s rugged coastline features hidden coves, beaches of various colours and sheer cliffs, all perfect for those who love a seaside experience. At Portoferraio, the beaches La Sorgente and Sansone are divided by a lighthouse and made up of small white pebbles that tickle the feet and make the water turquoise. At Marciana Marina the beaches are somewhat small, with the exception of Procchio, which is a long, wide stretch of sand easily accessible by car and with many services, sports equipment rentals and a few bathing establishments. The beaches of Rio Marina are black, covered in the processed leftovers of the iron ore extracted from the mines in Etruscan times: the most famous is Cala Seregola, not far from the town, and Topinetti; but be careful, as this material becomes baking hot under the sun. The most convenient and busiest beach is Cavo, right in front of the village. Capoliveri, Barabarca and Zuccale are perfect snorkelling beaches, while at the Marina di Campo the village beach, La Foce, is suitable for families. Moving westwards away from the village, you’ll find the bustling Cavoli beach, the Piscine di Seccheto, often frequented by naturists, and the beautiful and glittering, but often overcrowded, Fetovaia.

A word of advice

A day at the sea on the Island of Elba may seem like a perfect choice, the sea is clean, and the setting is beautiful, but it is not always easy get to your dream beach. The more hidden coves are difficult to reach, while the more accessible beaches can be very crowded. So consider visiting Elba off season, perhaps between May and June, or in September, to enjoy a more genuine experience.